FROM PRAGUE TO... PRAGUE! - THE LAST OF MY CZECH BUSKING EXPERIENCES...

From the few excursions I've had and the people I've spoken to, I've learnt that busking without a license is pretty much illegal in central Prague. But what to do? I have to earn my living, after all! And as I've not as of yet recieved a warning, I go out to my spot just across the Charles Bridge to sing for my next meal...

It's a wonderful experience. There's a bunch of rowdy guys hanging around the kebab shop near to where I play... when I see them gesturing wildly to each other it dawns on me that they're deaf, small factor which doesn't prevent ALL of them putting coins in my case despite my gestures not to. It's a beautiful thing... they all gets photos with me and stand around for a while, dancing to rhythms only they can sense. It's almost as if they can get something out of it anyway, that it's more of an energetic thing for them. Time abounds and they move on, I mouth 'Ahoi!' to them and wave wildly and then the street quietens...

There's a man in blue in the distance... 'here comes my warning' says my instinct with a sinking feeling. Sure enough, a policeman approaches as I sing a slow song. The fact that I close my eyes and pretend to be lost in my song makes no difference; he just givces a little cough and waits for me to resurface. He's very nice about it though - just tells me I need permission and that if I'm seen again I will get fined. A little bit of courtesy goes a long way, I think to myself as I pack up reluctantly. I don't mind being given the shove away as along as it's friendly enough, so it's on I go... to climb a hill, to write some songs, to meet a local girl who sings me ballads in Czech. What a lovely day in the sun it turns out to be, and I end it in a cave like little club, propping up the bar with an Irishman and a dreadlocked poet singing harmonies til closing time...

Prague, it's been grand but it's time to move on - perhaps to a place where I can earn my keep a little easier. The bus to Cesky Krumlov seems long, although three hours later we arrive to another beautiful heritage town, much more peaceful than the grand old capital. Upon finding a hostel I make for the town square straight away - it's just gone 5 p.m and there are still a few people milling about, as well as three English fella's preparing to drink the night away at a nearby restaurant. They turn out to be my best audience yet - requesting songs across the courtyard, ordering an orange juice for me which is brought over by a smiling waitress in traditional dress, yelling out encouragement after every song - I feel like a V.I.P!

Today must be one of my favourite busking experiences I think. Various tour groups all take countless photos of me, this oddity sitting near the central fountain and singing while the town bells toll. It's a great scene for an hour or more, before two policemen get in their car and DRIVE past me (they could have walked - it's a tiny square!) and give me a knowing frown. Perhaps they were too uncomfortable walking across the `stage´, with so many tourists watching before their own buses left port. Anyway, it seems busking isn't really a done thing perhaps anywhere in this country, so there's not a lot I can do next but go over to the English guy's table and help them drink some rather delectable wine.

I'm playing for them some more when I feel myself being watched by a couple of smartly dressed looking men, who seem to be having a small conference about me and smiling. Upon finishing my song, the elder of them approaches me and hands me a business, inviting me for dinner in the cellar restaurant even... what a luxurious night it´s turning out to be. So I go down to this beautiful cavern like restaurant, the caves originally used as an escape route from fires in the eleventh century, and I´m asked what I will eat.

To cut a long story short, the man who offered me his card is something of a living legened in the Czech Republic. He owns three swanky hotels in the country, and invites me back to Prague to sing in one of them; all food and accomodation taken care of. The English guys, who have come downstairs to join us as well, know who he is and whisper to me not to miss an opportunity like this. My new`boss´ of the moment, this man was exiled from his country after the Second World War by Russians that came into power in Czechoslovakia, and basically started his life again in Sweden, saving himself from bankruptcy many times over. Now possibly one of the wealthiest men from his country, he returned to Czech after the fall of comunism to help many of his old friends living in poverty. I believe he is a truly great man; the more time I spend with him I realise how lucky I am to have this experience.

So there´ll be no more busking in the Czech Republic for me I think! We drive back to Prague the next day, after I spend less than 24 hours in the beautiful town of Cesky Krumlov (though I do manage to go to the wonderful vegetarian restaurant there, one of the best I´ve ever been to.. highly recommended though I cannae remember the name, sorry). I´m put up in a lovely clean fluffy pillowed room on the seventh floor, a luxury unusual to me athough I do my best to enjoy it as much as possible. That night begins the first of my performances in the lobby bar, and I must say I prefer busking, as nobody in the bar seems to respond very much. Oh sure, there are a couple of good moments later on in the evenings when liquor has helped to lower social barriers, when a few punters sing along with ´Help!´ and ´With a Little Help From My Friends´ with me. Mostly though, I´m playing for myself.

I do get some good feedback but it seems this is a world away from the street. So used to staying in sometimes really skanky hostels, it takes me a while to adjust to such luxury - though don´t think I am complaining. Buffet breakfasts, a choice of three restaurants, bar staff constantly asking me what I am drinking - one could get used to this so eaily... though I do feel kind of lonely as well, and plan to visit my friends in ´La Cave´ in town. This never happens however, as on my last night just as I am planning to go, I end up drinking the night away with an Irish and English man - some great craic, loads of laughs and I end up sleeping for three hours before my alarm tells me I have to get ready to catch my bus to Vienna. Four days of singing in the bar has left me only a few days left in Europe; it´s been a great experience and I´m almost tempted to stay, but it´s time to move on.. to Vienna for a night, then back to beloved Ljubljana for some fire performance action...